We are never so happy, nor so unhappy, as we suppose ourselves to be.
Summary: My idea was to provide information in addition to the already great installation manual provided by McCruise. There are tips for even better results or notes of caution you may want to review if you want to avoid potentially costly mistakes.
The notes follow the order in the manual, either referring to page numbers, header number, or both.
To say this upfront: the McCruise cruise control you are going to install is a quality product. No modification of parts included in this kit is required! So before you do modify any part, read the manual twice, and make sure you know what you are doing! ![]()
The manual suggests (on p. 5): "use a pencil to mark the centreline of the handlebar… along the split line of the switch block".
My comment: In my case the switch block centreline would not have indicated the centre of the handle bar. What is relevant for this marking is the left brake master cylinder, and how it sits (or how you want to sit) on the handlebar. Furthermore, the positional relationship of switch block and master cylinder centrelines matters too.
How I went about it — and I am glad I did, because the required cut in the cover was required 5 mm further to the rear (of the bike). I removed both covers, made sure that the brake lever sits the way I want it to sit; the same with the switch block.
The result will be either the centrelines of both, switch block and brake master cylinder clamp line up, or one is before the other. If the centrelines align, that is great; if the switch block centreline is further to the rear (of the bike) than the brake cylinder, then that is good too.
The cable coming out of the switch block has to bypass the bracket of the McCruise control switches.
My point is: this can slightly vary from bike to bike. Simply make sure the cut in the cover will sit where the McCruise switch bracked hangs of the master cylinder clamp. Another point here is: it may not be straight down, but on a slight angle.
The manual says (on p. 5): "… the section of the cover that needs to be cut out later …"
My comment: Nothing wrong with this statement.
I drilled a hole at the end of the proposed cut, before cutting into the cover. The benefit is a clean end of the cut. The two cuts required to produce the gap for the McCruise Switch bracket simply end in the drill hole. A hole is sturdier and requires much more force to be ripped apart further. The latter can potentially happen when the cover is put back on after the installation.
Refers to manual page 9 (7. Installation)
I ride in rain; the last time 1,500 km over 1.5 days. My point: any part of the bike — except for the waterproof spaces — was wet. This includes the spaces inside the fairing, you know, the otherwise really hard to reach places.
In general: This was the main reason for me to use grommets whenever I entered weather-protected compartments, making sure it stays this way. In particular: I added a grommet in the lower glower box for the actuator cable.
Refers to manual page 13 (7. Installation)
I felt that routing the vacuum hose from the engine to the vacuum reservoir seemed to be the safer option, not really knowing what kind of sharp edges the hose would be exposed to. I used a 10 mm electrical corrugated conduit for most of the length of the hose.
Refers to manual page 14 (7. Installation)
My vacuum reservoir did not fit under the brake line which hooks into the ABS. Not a problem; it can go on top of the brake line. I thought a little protection would be in order. This is not really required (the plastic won't scratch the brake line), but I had a cut-off piece from the vacuum hose, which fitted nicely. ![]()
Refers to manual page 21–22 (7. Installation)
This section only needs consideration if you have a SpeedoHealer device. I have a SpeedoHealer device installed on my Burgman. It converts the number of pulses from the speed sensor to a number that displays correctly on the speedometer. From a technical perspective it does not matter, whether the McCruise signal is taken before or after the SpeedoHealer. BUT, from a practical perspective it is best to loop the McCruise cruise controller into the plug coming directly from the speed sensor. Why? The controller units for the Burgman 650 are factory pre-configured. It expects the Suzuki factory number of pulses as configured. Another benefit is that the cruise controller does not need to be calibrated after you change the SpeedoHealer pulse conversion ratio.
Of course you can plug it in after the SpeedoHealer, but you then need to go through the calibration process for the McCruise cruise controller.
Refers to manual page 24 (7. Installation)
This is a minor thing, which may only have been the case with my set. The nipple on the new throttle cable, entering the switch block assembly, needed a few strokes with a file to reduce the width of the nipple. The photo above shows a nipple with one surface out of angle, also being too wide for the accelerator grip. A few stokes with a file, flattening the excess material on the side, so its surface is perpendicular to the nipple cylinder. This took longer to describe, than actually to do. So as I said, a minor thing, yet still important for a smooth throttle operation.
I can only emphasise that the McCruise Cruise Control is a well-thought-through solution for your Burgman 650. I am absolutely certain any adaptation to other bike types is done professionally. In case you have any questions, please contract the McCruise crew, who are very helpful, and speedy with their responses too.
As for the installation: Read the manual before you even tempt the installation! Make yourself familiar what it is your going to install, and understand why it is done the way it is. I have an engineering background and can safely comment: "this is a great piece of kit to install."
Heed the warnings issued in the manual; I am sure they relate to all sorts of mistakes by installers before, and are attempt by the McCruise team to prevent you from making the same.
Best of luck with your installation!
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